Khilar Khashirov, first man in the world who climbed to the top of mt Elbrus

Khilar Khashirov
Khilar Khashirov, a guide, was the first to reach the east summit of Elbrus in 1829.

Khilar Khashirov is the first man in the world who climbed to the top of mt #Elbrus without special training. He was a guide for Imperial Russian army scientific expedition led by General Georgi Emmanuel. Khashirov's nationality is claimed both by Kabardians and Karachays. Georgi Emanuel's biographer Prince Golitsyn, identified Khilar specifically as a Circassian from the region of Kabarda. [Zhizneopisannie Generela ot Kavalerii Emanuelya (Life-Sketches of the Cavalry General Emanuel), Moscow, 1851] but Turkic tribesmen claim him as ethnically one of their own.

A detailed research about it can be read in Russian at: http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=4233 “Восхождение на Эльбрус в 1829 году. Архивные материалы.”

Here is a news from the "Morning Post"  (London, England)
The Scientific Expedition To The Caucasus (Thursday 29 October 1829) 

               

Another clipping from the "[Glasgow] Evening Citizen" - Monday 14 September 1868, page 2.